{"id":41,"date":"2020-02-26T19:30:00","date_gmt":"2020-02-26T16:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/patricktirler.com\/?p=41"},"modified":"2022-09-25T11:22:02","modified_gmt":"2022-09-25T08:22:02","slug":"kaffeer-oman-al-khumaira-wall","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/patricktirler.com\/en\/kaffeer-oman-al-khumaira-wall","title":{"rendered":"“Kaffeer” (VII) Oman – Al Khumaira Wall"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Oman – Jebel Kawr – Al Khumaira Wall – 26.02.2020 – mit Martin Dejori und Florian Gufler<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Es war der letzte Klettertag unserer Kletterreise nach Oman, als Martin, Florian und ich am Wandfu\u00df des Jebel Kawr standen. Ziel des heutigen Tages war die Route \u201eFortune Teller\u201d, welche vor kurzem von Simon Messner und Martin Sieberer erstbegangen wurde. Mit dabei Judith und Janluca, welche sich als eigenst\u00e4ndige Seilschaft bewegten.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Die ersten Seill\u00e4ngen zum gro\u00dfen Band, \u00fcber dem die Wand an Steilheit gewinnt, bew\u00e4ltigen wir schnell und ohne Probleme. Florian an der Spitze gibt das Tempo an. Immer wieder schweifen unsere Blicke zu den markanten Rissen und Verschneidungen links unserer Route. Erst nach der 3. Seill\u00e4nge spricht Martin schlie\u00dflich den Gedanken aus, doch eine neue Variante zu versuchen. Begeistert von diesem Vorschlag erblicken wir links \u00fcber uns eine Verschneidung, die nach mehreren Metern abrupt an einem Dachvorsprung endet. In der Mitte der Verschneidung verl\u00e4uft ein leichter Riss, der jedoch zum Gro\u00dfteil verschlossen wirkt. Der dar\u00fcberliegende steile und abweisende Wandbereich wirkt auf uns sehr einladend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So \u00fcbernehme ich die Seilf\u00fchrung und beginne langsam die Verschneidung emporzuklettern. Der Riss l\u00e4sst sich \u00fcberraschend gut von lockerem Material befreien, sodass er einige Friends zur Absicherung aufnimmt. Am Dachvorsprung angelangt bietet sich die M\u00f6glichkeit nach rechts auszuweichen, die ich dankend annehme und somit die Verschneidung mit einem kr\u00e4ftigen Zug verlassen kann. Kurz bevor sich das Seil zum Ende neigt, gelingt es mir einen verl\u00e4sslichen Stand zu bauen. In der n\u00e4chsten Seill\u00e4nge dr\u00e4ngt uns die Kompaktheit des Felses weit nach links \u00fcber eine schwer abzusichernde Platte, bis ich zu einem Riss unter einem Dach fl\u00fcchten kann. Dort \u00fcbernimmt Martin die F\u00fchrung, der voll motiviert auf die D\u00e4cher zuklettert und sich ohne zu z\u00f6gern locker dar\u00fcber schwingt. Eine wechselhafte Kombination von Rissen, kompakten Platten und Verschneidungen weist uns einen klaren Weg nach oben. Die Wand wird flacher, doch die Felsqualit\u00e4t nimmt keineswegs ab. Der Ausstieg scheint nah, als Florian Martin abl\u00f6st und mit seinen blutigen Fingern den Weg \u00fcber scharfe Platten nach oben sucht. Nach zwei weiteren Seill\u00e4ngen erreichen wir den Gipfel und k\u00f6nnen auf eine sch\u00f6ne neue Route zur\u00fcckblicken.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Am n\u00e4chsten Morgen beim Fr\u00fchst\u00fcck hatte der Kaffee ein besonderes Aroma. Als alle Tassen voll waren und die Kaffeemokka leer war, bemerkten wir einen riesigen verkohlten K\u00e4fer in der leeren Mokka. Anscheinend hat der \u201eKaffeer\u201c aber allen geschmeckt, denn der K\u00e4fer durfte auch noch bei der zweiten Runde drinnen bleiben. Als Dank f\u00fcr den guten Kaffee widmen wir ihm unsere Erstbegehung.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\nngg_shortcode_0_placeholder\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Routeninformationen:<\/u><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kaffeer – VII (obl.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

7 Seill\u00e4ngen + 3Sl von der Route \u201eFortune Teller\u201d vom Band weg<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Absicherung: total clean, einige Haken zum Standplatzbau vom Vorteil<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sehr abwechslungsreiche Route auf gutem bis perfektem Fels!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n\n\n\n

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Kaffeer_Topo<\/a>Herunterladen<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n
Kaffeer_Wandbild<\/a>Herunterladen<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Oman – Jebel Kawr – Al Khumaira Wall – 26.02.2020 – mit Martin Dejori und Florian Gufler Es war der letzte Klettertag unserer Kletterreise nach Oman, als Martin, Florian und ich am Wandfu\u00df des Jebel Kawr standen. Ziel des heutigen Tages war die Route \u201eFortune Teller\u201d, welche vor kurzem von Simon Messner und Martin Sieberer […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":42,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[26,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-41","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpin","category-erstbegehungen"],"translation":{"provider":"WPGlobus","version":"2.12.2","language":"en","enabled_languages":["de","en"],"languages":{"de":{"title":true,"content":true,"excerpt":false},"en":{"title":false,"content":false,"excerpt":false}}},"yoast_head":"\n"Kaffeer" (VII) Oman - Al Khumaira Wall - Patrick Tirler<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/patricktirler.com\/kaffeer-oman-al-khumaira-wall\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\""Kaffeer" (VII) Oman - 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